Humboldt's London
The interior of the Oberon Saloon, undated.
Over the years, Humboldt County has attracted many notable writers, one of the best-known being novelist Jack London. In the summer and fall of 1911, London set off on an adventurous trip from his Sonoma County home to points north.
Learning to drive four spirited horses over reportedly dubious roads, London guided a wagon carrying his typewriter, his wife Charmian and his Japanese valet, Yoshimatsu Nakata.
A leisurely meandering route took him through various scenic, historic and good fishing and dining spots. Eventually they passed into Humboldt County where they enjoyed eating eel and abalone. After staying one night at Fortuna’s Star Hotel, the party briefly watched construction of Fernbridge over the Eel, and then moved on to Eureka.
London’s best-selling novel Call of the Wild was popular here, and he was greeted by fans as quite a celebrity. He stayed at the G street home of former Eureka mayor H. L. Ricks. From here he mailed an article about his trip to date that was published in the September issue of Sunset magazine. The article was part travelogue, part discussion of horse personalities, and part enthusiastic promotion of Humboldt’s climate and development potential.
Interestingly, although Humboldt was then in the throes of strong anti-Asian sentiment, there was no report of hostility to the Japanese valet. This was probably because of London and his host’s prominence, the fact that the stay was to be only temporary, and because Nakata was himself a character in an earlier London piece, his autobiographical travelogue The Cruise of the Snark.
Presumably it was after mailing his article, that the incident most notorious in the minds of Humboldters took place. That happened at the Oberon Saloon on Eureka’s Second Street. Though the details and even the personalities are historically disputed, it seems that London, an avid Socialist, got into an argument with a member of the conservative Murphy family, owners of the Pacific Lumber Company. It ended in a prolonged fist fight, some saying that it was London who got in the first punch but that he was also first to be knocked to the floor. Accounts differ, and London himself later denied it even happened. None the less, the legend of Jack London and the Eureka bar fight lives on.
It may be that recovery from his reported injuries kept the London party in town a few days longer than planned. But soon they continued on to Requa and then inland to Hoopa and a canoe trip down river. Like all good writers, London worked these sights and experiences into his writings – altercations at bars no doubt included.